Cape Breton, Nova Scotia : Be Careful It May Tug at Your Heart Strings and Never Let Go

by Susan Spellman Cann and Helen Batherson

Nova Scotia, it tugs at your heartstrings, and for some, it never lets go. For the past 40-some years, we have both been returning to our roots in Nova Scotia. If you want to find tranquillity and also have a good time, we’re betting it will pull on yours as well. It’s not just the place, it’s the people and the way of life that make it a place we long to be as the summer draws near. For one of us, it is still a pull from far away; for the other, it is a new retirement home. 

If you are thinking of traveling to Nova Scotia, there are a few places we would recommend. Of course, number one, for us both, would be Cape Breton, often named the #1 island to visit in Canada and North America. It’s a beautiful little Island with so much character, some of the most spectacular scenery in the country, and lots of great, fun things to do. Want to know where to find culinary delights? Check out these recommendations. Do you enjoy a sip or two of wine, well check out some of these wineries.

Here are some of our top places to visit in Cape Breton; some are probably very familiar and some are off the beaten track; some are tourist destinations and some are noted because we’ve lived here, off and on, for quite some time; some will provide simple pleasures, like walking on a beach, and others will provide you with fabulous experiences, like strolling through a historic village. We think each one of them has so much to offer, creating stunning memories of your visit! 

And so, in no particular order:

Louisbourg is a great little town to check out. Head towards the lighthouse in Louisbourg. It’s a gem of a place, we may be biased but we like it better than Peggy’s Cove. You can stroll along the fabulous 2 km Lighthouse Trail,  (sadly at the time some of you may visit it will be in repair. It is always one of our favorite things to do. There are so many places all along the Louisbourg Trail with opportunities to take many fabulous photos – you won’t know which ones you like best!

A few places you might like to stay in Louisbourg are the Louisbourg Harbour Inn, a lovely B and B, where you will be treated to a fabulous place to stay, a welcoming host, and great food. For a tasty adventure, you can try staying at the North Star, owned and operated by down-to-earth celebrities Justin and Colin who will, no doubt, make this a memorable experience you won’t soon forget. Take in a meal at the Bothy; you’ll need to call 902-733-2080 (old school). It’s the only way to get a reservation. You can also enjoy a great meal at the newly opened Spoondrift Cafe. Both are excellent places where you can expect a tasty meal made by some of the best local chefs.  And, of course, you won’t want to miss visiting the Fortress of Louisbourg, where you will take a step back in time to the 1700’s. For the past few summers, I (Susan) have visited the fortress, and each time I find something new to enjoy, something to inspire me, and something to amaze me!

The Miners Museum in Glace Bay is always a favorite on a rainy day. You get to go down in the mines with a retired miner, who will sweep you away with real stories of heroic men and women.

Out on the Mira. Well, it’s really (Susan’s) number 1 as she has a bungalow (cottage) there. Nothing better than a good swim in the Mira River or a kayak ride on the 55 km (34 mile) meandering river. It’s Susan’s home away from home, it feeds her soul and she loves it there. Be sure to stop at Mullins Rite Stop on the Louisbourg Highway and pick up a fresh loaf of bread and some treats on your way to wherever you are staying. You can also check out the Mira Boat Club for entertainment or a bite to eat. You don’t have to be a member to partake. What else can you do around Mira? You can check out Mira Gut Beach and look for beach glass; walk along the boardwalk in Main A Dieu;  go for a scenic drive on either side of the Mira River; visit the Mira River Provincial Park or the Two Rivers Wildlife Park in Huntington. If you like to hike you can check out some of these options and don’t forget to go for a beautiful walk on Riversides Knowledge Path.

Cabot Links in Inverness, (2 hours away from Sydney) is an amazing place for golfers, and it’s also the location of one of our favourite beaches in Nova Scotia. You can spend hours walking up and down this wonderful sandy beach.

There is nothing like the smell of the ocean, the sound of the waves and warm sand beneath your feet while spending time walking and chatting with one of your best friends.

The Skyline Trail is a 6.5 km hike that is definitely worth the effort; the top provides the most spectacular views. We guarantee this hike will not disappoint! The charming and lovely village of Baddeck is a sweet place to go for a day visit – you can have an experience out on the water in one of the excursion boats, take the ferry over to Kidston Island to wander the trails, or picnic on the beach, meander down the main street and stop in the shops and boutiques, or enjoy a very fresh lobster dinner at one of several restaurants. Don’t forget to visit the Alexander Graham Bell Museum – there is so much history to read about and absorb, along with physical copies of his experimental kites and many other projects! The village of Ingonish, on the Cabot Trail, offers a great place to relax – there’s a federal Park; hiking trails; and sandy beaches where you can swim in the ocean. Ski Cape Smokey offers the only gondola ride in Cape Breton, and while there isn’t a café or place to eat at the top, the scenery is unparalleled! Or stay a day or two at the renowned Keltic Lodge Resort and Spa, either in the main Lodge or rent one of their darling cottages. The views, both on the drive to Ingonish and in the area, are second to none! Are you driving around Cape Breton?  If so, be sure to take Highway 19, just as you come across the Causeway. It’s a delightful drive along the coast, again providing many areas for spectacular photos. There are some lovely, small villages to explore along the way, such as Port Hood, which has 5 sandy beaches that are said to be the warmest water north of the Carolinas. Leaving Port Hood, take the drive along the Colindale Road and you will come to a great fishing spot along the river and at the bridge. Another wonderful village is Mabou, home of the singing Rankin family; have lunch at the Red Shoe Pub, or stay at the Mabou River Inn or the Duncreigan Country Inn. Each Sunday from June to October, the Mabou Farmer’s Market is open from 11 to 2 pm. Here you will find some fabulous fresh produce from surrounding farms and gardens, as well as some scrumptious prepared meals to take out!  Another relaxing and calming place to visit is Gampo Abbey, a Buddhist monastery at Pleasant Bay on the Cabot Trail. Here you can relax, walk the grounds of the Abbey, hike the trails, and visit the Stupa of Enlightenment. You can stop and chat with any of the monastics you encounter on your rambles. However, due to the Abbey’s monastic schedule, tours of the inside of the Abbey are not offered at this time.

If you love to go birding and see them in their natural environment, a stop at the Bird Island Tours is a must. The boat takes you out to the Bird Islands, for approximately three hours, and you will be up, close and personal with the many inhabitants of the two islands – gannets, puffins, eagles, cormorants, kittiwakes, swallows, gulls, and other bird species – as well as many seals in the water, who love to follow along with the boat! Photographers will have so many opportunities to get amazing pictures for their collections! The Village of Iona has one of the most historical places in Cape Breton, the Highland Village. It’s dubbed as a ‘living history museum and folklore center that celebrates the stories, language, and culture of Cape Breton’s Gaelic heritage. As you walk around the property, you will experience the period historic buildings, filled with appropriate artifacts, along with a museum. It’s a great place to spend an afternoon – once again, the views from the hill are stunning!

Sydneyis the historic capital of Cape Breton. If you didn’t stop there on the way through to Louisbourg, then turn around and go back; and make sure you have a bite at Flavour on the Water, Governor’s Pub, or the many great eateries. You could do a little shopping along Charlotte Street or stroll along the harbor boardwalk. If the cruise ships are in, there is usually a big market by the Big Fiddle for you to enjoy. And if you are in Sydney on Saturday mornings, you can check out the Farmers Market. There are several museums to wander through, and lots of places that have wonderful local entertainment (check out this guide). Cheticamp is a place rich in Acadian culture, and famous for its hooked rugs and décorative pieces. Be sure to stop by the Doryman for some live music, creating memories with your friends!

The Cabot Trail is a must, but in the fall it is glorious. The 300 km loop of the trail, weaves around the incredible coast of Cape Breton with magnificent views. There are so many stops along the way, too numerous to cover them all; be sure to check with a tourist information stop before you go around. There are hiking trails in the highlands; waterfalls; historic sites; craft shops; and quaint restaurants. An experience not to be missed and I (Helen) once went around on a motorcycle, and my younger sister accomplished this on a bicycle! 

We guarantee Cape Breton, and all of Nova Scotia with more than 7,400 kilometers of coastline, will hold a place in your heart forever; your heartstrings will pull you back, again and again, to see all the wonderful things this incredible place has to offer – lively music, rousing ceilidhs, warm-hearted people, stunning vistas, and so much more.  

Don’t leave home without the Doers and Dreamers guide; it will give you all the information you need to find out what is happening wherever you travel throughout the Province. So be careful as Cape Breton, Canada’s best-kept secret will be calling your name, and you’ll most definitely want it to be your starting point!